Montpellier: a City to Fall in Love With
The instant Mediterranean vibe, the historical centre with its narrow streets, the countless cool restaurants and bars, the new architectural gems...
Let me take you on a visit to Montpellier and share some not-to-miss highlights. The instant Mediterranean vibe, the historical centre with its narrow streets, the numerous, cosy squares hosting inviting terraces, the countless cool restaurants and bars, the new architectural gems, and so much more. On top of that, you’re at the beach in a flash. I love it! And so do the many students, as it is a popular university city. Life is good in the South of France!
Majestic Arc
Somehow, I always enter Montpellier via the majestic Arc de Triomphe. Not a bad way to start your Montpellier visit. The Arc de Triomphe dates back to 1691, when it was built to honour the Sun King Louis XIV. The arch is an extension of the Peyrou Promenade, with its remarkable water tower and statue of Louis XIV mounted on horseback. On the other side of the water tower is the aqueduct dating from the 18th century. Every Saturday morning, you will find the Marché des Arceaux with stalls full of local produce at the foot of these arches. Coming from the Arc de Triomphe, I automatically continue on the Rue Foch, the royal lane of Montpellier. After passing the Palais de Justice, another historic monument, you will find many high-end shops in elegant Haussmannian-style buildings.
Place de la Canourgue
Instead of shopping, I prefer to start the day with a cup of tea on one of the lovely terraces in my favourite square, ‘Place de la Canourgue’. This is the oldest square in Montpellier and, as such, a beautiful haven of peace and tranquillity. It is exactly how I imagined living in France: sipping my tea and enjoying a croissant under the rustle of the leaves while listening to the French surroundings. Aaaah, c’est beau la vie! Here, you’ll also find the Hotel Richer de Belleval. This unique townhouse has been brought back to life by the brothers Jacques and Laurent Pourcel, along with Olivier Château. It now houses a hotel, the Michelin-starred restaurant Le Jardin des Sens, and the bistro La Canourgue.
Saint-Pierre Cathedral
Continuing my way on the square, I pass the Fountain of the Unicorns (Fontaine des Licornes), which used to spark my daughter’s imagination when she was little. This spot also gives me a gorgeous view of my next destination: the Saint-Pierre Cathedral. Walking to the cathedral always makes me feel like the clocks have stopped ticking. All of a sudden, the impressive cathedral rises in front of me. Saint-Pierre became a cathedral in 1536, after serving as the chapel of Saint Benedict’s monastery. It is the only medieval church that survived the Wars of Religion between 1562 and 1598. Two gigantic cylindrical pillars, each with a diameter of 4.5 meters, mark the impressive portal at the main entrance. The façade beautifully contrasts with the clear blue sky in the background!
L’Ecusson
Although Montpellier is quite a large city, the 7th biggest in France, there are still plenty of spots where you can escape the crowds. Despite visiting countless times, I never fail to get lost in the quiet, old streets of the historical centre, known as L’Ecusson. I don’t mind, though, as I always stumble upon something new. This is how I discovered ‘Le Quartier de l’Ancien Courrier’. Nestled between Place Martyrs de la Résistance and Place Saint-Roch, this labyrinth within a labyrinth will lead you to unique shops and restaurants with teeny tiny terraces. Probably the most photographed street in Montpellier is a side street on the Rue de l’Ancien Courrier, called Rue du Bras de Fer. The colourful steps and flags lead to an iron sign in the shape of an arm- bras de fer in French- holding a lantern. Can you spot it?
Meeting Point
Finally, I arrived at Montpellier’s central meeting point: la Place de la Comédie. The most beautiful 19th-century buildings surround the square. One of the most eye-catching ones is the municipal theatre with its monumental façade. Hence the name of the square. The statue of the ‘Three Graces’ can’t be missed either. The one on the square is a replica, by the way. You will find the original statues of the Greek mythological women Aglaé, Euphrosine and Thalie in the opera house lobby. The great thing about this square is that no cars are allowed, like the entire historical centre. So, you can stroll around all you like, soaking in the vibrant city life. As I said before, life is good in the South of France. And even better in Montpellier!
Good to Know
Montpellier is the seventh-biggest city in France and has a beautiful historical centre called l’Ecusson. The main tourist information office is right at the end of Place de la Comédie and offers extensive information and guided tours.
Parking
Coming from the A75 or A9, I usually park my car in the EFFIA parking lot called ‘Montpellier Arc de Triomphe’. From here, you can easily walk into the city. But of course, there are also numerous paid parking lots.
Office de Tourisme
30 Allée Jean de Lattre de Tassigny
34000 Montpellier
+33 (0)4 67 60 60 60
Montpellier has been on my radar for a long time… and I think it’s about time I finally planned an exploration there!