In Search of Flamingoes at the Salt Lagoons of Peyriac-de-Mer
A windy but beautiful walk including some boardwalks
The southern French coast, stretching between Montpellier and Perpignan, is home to several lagoons. Historically, the inhabitants knew how to use some of these lagoons by extracting salt. For instance, in Peyriac-de-Mer, an epitaph proves that the Romans already knew the value of this white gold. Although salt harvesting ceased in the 1960s, you can enjoy a variety of beautiful walks around the string of ‘étangs’ and the old salt works. Whether you’re looking for a short, medium, or long hike, there’s a trail for everyone.
Saline
Since the twins were studying hard for their exams, it was no fun being at home last Sunday. So, as soon as we had our breakfast under our belts, Chéri and I laced up our walking shoes. Direction: the lagoons near Peyriac-de-Mer. We had previously walked the short loop around the ‘saline’ (the former saltworks) a couple of times. This easy walk, partly on wooden boardwalks above the water, starts from the L’Illette parking area. It takes you on a 2.7 kilometre, 45-minute walk around the small lagoon closest to Peyriac-de-Mer. The chances of spotting some flamingoes are high. The kids loved having the house to themselves, so it encouraged us to stay out for hours. They didn’t have to tell me twice; it was the perfect excuse for me to choose the longest hike.
Tour des Lagunes
Checking the Visorando app, the biggest circular walk was the Tour des Lagunes, spanning just over 13 kilometres in four hours. The path would lead us from La Saline to the Étang du Doul and finally the Étang de Saint-Paul. Keep in mind that this walk isn’t marked on the signs at the l’Illette Parking. Therefore, we followed the interactive Visorando map (also available for free). If you prefer marked trails, you can go with the previously mentioned Saline walk. Other options are the Boucle des Étangs (5.8 kilometres in 1 hour and 45 minutes) or the Boucle des Crêtes (5.7 kilometres in 1 hour and 45 minutes). The first part of the hike followed the Saline and included some wooden pontoons. Of course, the flamingoes in front of Peyriac-de-Mer completed the picture. We also enjoyed observing a black-winged stilt protecting her three chicks.
Fierce Breeze
Leaving the boardwalks behind, we continued to Le Mour Hill and then to the Étang du Doul. The vistas on this lagoon on one side and the Étang de Peyriac-de-Mer were stunning. The fierce breeze, quite common in this region, blew through us. Yet, it didn’t stop a few people from swimming at the little beach by the Étang de Doul. Up until this point, the hike was the most beautiful. Chéri noticed that we could walk back to Peyriac-de-Mer at one point, but I insisted on completing the loop around the Étang de Saint-Paul. Mainly because I’m always afraid of missing out on things. But honestly, this part wasn’t as pretty as the first two lagoons, with a poorly signposted path that brought us through a burned forest with black trees all over. We managed to return to Peyriac-de-Mer just in time for goûter (tea-time) with the kids!
Good to Know
Peyriac-de-Mer is a sweet little village, located by a string of lagoons. Several signed trails start from the l’Illette Parking area. The easiest one is the 2.7 kilometres loop around La Saline, which is very accessible for children. However, keep a close eye on young ones, as there are no barriers on the boardwalks. Other options include the Boucle des Étangs (5.8 kilometres, approximately 1 hour and 45 minutes) or the Boucle des Crêtes (5.7 kilometres, approximately 1 hour and 45 minutes). There is little shade along the trails, so be sure to bring enough water, food, and sun protection. After your efforts, you can reward yourself at one of the several restaurants and bars in Peyriac-de-Mer.
Parking
It isn’t possible to park in Peyriac-de-Mer, therefore, it is best to use one of the designated parking lots outside the village centre. The starting point for all three walks is at the L’Illette parking lot.
Maison du Tourisme Peyriac-de-Mer
From September till June:
2 Place de la Mairie
11440 Peyriac-de-Mer
+33 (0)4 68 42 68 42
From July to August:
A hostess on a tricycle will be present on the Promenade de la Saline and in the village centre from Tuesday to Saturday.